Here’s where we’re starting: a nice sheet of stocking stitch on 4.5 mm knitting needles.
We’re going to use a 4.5 mm crochet hook to cast these stitches off.
Ideally, your hook should be around the same size as your needles. A little smaller can also work, for a neater edge, but try to avoid going much bigger; the edge will tend to frill (unless that’s what you want, in which case, go for it!)
Knitted Stocking Stitch Fabric
4.5mm needle and 4.5 mm hook, ready to cast off
Insert hook, knitwise into first stitch.
Slip first stitch off needle and hold on hook.
hook into first stitch
first stitch slipped onto hook
Insert hook into next stitch on needle.
Draw yarn between hook and needle, travelling OVER the hook, between the needle and hook, then UNDER the hook. (Knitters: This Yran Over is worked in the opposite direction to the way many of you usually work, so take note of that as you go).
hook inserted knitwise into next stitch along
Yarn Over passes between hook and needle
Using hook, draw Yarn Over through closest loop to hook head. Then push the stitch that’s still on the needle off it. You now have two loops on your hook.
Yarn Over hook (same direction as before)
two loops on hook
Yarn Over in place
Draw Yarn Over through both loops on hook.
You are left with one loop on your hook and your first knit stitch cast off.
Begin casting off next stitch on needle by inserting hook knitwise.
One loop on hook, first knit stitch cast off
hook inserted into next knitting stitch
From here, we’re repating the cast off process from the first Yarn Over.
Yarn Over BETWEEN hook and needle
Yarn Over drawn through knitting stitch. Stitch slipped off needle
second Yarn Over
Yarn Over drawn through both loops
That’s your second stitch cast off.
When you repeat this for a while, you’ll start to see your crochet stitches build up behind your hook like this:
half of the row cast off
Okay, now.
To cast off your cast off row, work until you only have one loop on your hook and your needle has no stitches left.
Then, Yarn Over…
final loop of cast off row
Yarn Over added to hook
Break yarn, and dra-a-a-a-aw end through loop…
end drawn through loop…
loop getting b igger and tail getting smaller
…until it pops through.
Then, pull end to tighten the little knot in the corner of your fabric.
end pulled through to secure last stitch
pulling the end will tighten that last stitch and turn it into a little knot
And that’s your fabric totally bound off!
Don’t forget to weave in your ends, though!
return pass complete. close-up of site of INC1 increase
Here’s where we’re starting: a nice sheet of TSS stitches.
We’re going to put a INC 1 increase in the middle of the next row which will increase our stitch number by one stitch.
Tunisian Simple Stitch fabric
work TSS sts up to the spot you intend to increase
To increase, wrap yarn over hook.
Then, with Yarn Over still in place, work hook into next line/stitch along, yarn over and draw one loop through line/stitch.
The INC1 Yarn Over is still on the hook and locked between two regular, TSS stitches.
yarn over
next TSS complete
Finish the rest of the forward pass as usual.
Once forward pass is complete, work return pass as usual, i.e. YO, draw through 1 loop, then *YO, draw through two loops* repeatedly until only one loop remains on hook.
For next row, work up to INC1 yarn over as usual…
Return pass complete. INC1 Yarn over visible in centre of fabric.
Next Forward Pass started. Hook worked up to INC1 Yarn Over of previous row.
… then you have a choice.
Either
A) Work hook into INC1 yarn over itself, or…
B) Work hook into eyelet made underneath INC1 yarn over.
A) Hook worked into INC1 Yarn Over
Yarn Over added to hook
Yarn Over drawn though INC1 Yarn Over
B) Eyelet identified
Hook into eyelet
Yarn Over added, and drawn back to front of work
Either choice is valid.
Then, complete Forward and Return Passes as usual.
After a few rows back and forth, this is the type of texture you’ll get in your fabric:
When my Mam taught me to crochet, she did so by handing me a Granny Square blanket she was working on, and teaching me to treble crochet clusters into her already beautifully crocheted fabric.
I focussed on the stitches, on how they danced around my hook, and how the fabric grew under my fingers as I crocheted towards the corner. Then she showed me how to add enough stitches to veer around it and start on the next straight side.
Because I didn’t have to struggle with magic loops or counting or seams, I was able to learn to love the craft from the moment I began, and it’s that reason I think this modified “one block” granny square pattern makes for the perfect pattern to introduce a new-comer to the craft.
Now, bare in mind crocheters, YOU will have to make the first 4 rows for your prospective crochet genius before you hand it over, but once you do, the rules simplify to a point where a beginner, even with very little crafting experience, can pick up the rhythm and crochet confidently.
Starting your gorgeous Granny Square
Note: This pattern is written using UK stitch terminology.
Make 6 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch into chain furthest from hook to make a loop.
6 chain stitches
make into a loop with one slip stitch
Round 1. Into the loop, make 1 dc, 1 htr, 14 tr.
double crochet and half treble on 6-chain loop
14 treble crochet stitches added to loop
Note: This Granny Square has NO seams at the start or end of a round. In fact, because it’s worked in an ever-increasing spiral, there technically is no start or end of a round. As my Mam says, you simply crochet this square until you either run out of yarn or run out of patience – whichever comes first.
Round 2.
Into the gap between htr and 1st tr, make [3 tr].
the gap between the half treble and the first treble crochet stitch
3 treble crochet stitches in the gap
*sk 2 sts, work [3 tr] into next gap*, 6 times. (This gives you 8 clusters, each with 3 trebles in them and 8 “gaps” between them.)
3-treble clusters all around the edge, separated by 2 trebles each on previous round
Round 3.
*Into next gap, make [6 tr], into next gap make [3 tr]
the next gap is the big one to the left of your hook
6 trebles crochet stitches in the gap outlined in previous image, and 3 treble crochet stitches int he next gap along
Repeat the above, 3 times.
Note: The 6-tr clusters are your corners, the 3-tr clusters make up the sides of your square.
4 corner clusters (6 trebles each) and 4 sides (made of a 3-treble cluster each) completed
Does it look a little wonky and warped? Sure! It’s a spiral with corners after all, so it’s always going to be a little off-kilter. (Who among us isn’t a little wonky, though, right?)
But as I said in the intro, this is a great pattern to teach someone to make Granny Squares. It’s not an award winning masterpiece; it’s a starter kit.
Round 4.
Into middle of next 6-tr cluster make [6 tr], *into next gap make [3 tr]* twice.
One corner (6 trebles) and one side (2 sets of 3 trebles) complete.
Repeat for other the corners and three sides.
Your square is ready to hand over to your crochet student. (Or maybe use it to start a One-Square Granny blanket of your own. They can have the next square you start! 😉
At this point, your Granny Square should have four identifiable corners, and enough gaps between clusters that your beginner has space to learn and practice.
After this, it’s simply a matter of remembering the two basic rules of Granny Square manufacture:
When you encounter a gap, put three trebles in it.
When you see a corner, split it in two and add 6 trebles in the middle.
Granny Squares are just pure, logical genius. So, if you follow those rules, your One Square Granny will be a success.
Once your beginner has a little practice, and muscle memory has started to develop, you can add chains between the clusters, or teach them a more complex square pattern with seamed rows, or multiple colours. But I guarantee you, this will remain a favourite thanks to its simplicity, its gorgeous texture and the fact that, with a little experience, you can carry on crocheting while watching TV and not miss a stitch!
Folks, I’m happy for you to use this pattern to teach classes and individuals. All I ask is that if you get paid for teaching this using pattern, that you refer back to this page and link your students to it and my work.
Legendary Shawls 1€20.00
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