Tunisian Crochet seams can often look botched and ugly.
Here’s how to make your Tunisian Crochet garments and accessories look seamless!
Start With Some Tunisian Crochet
In this case, I have made a lovely piece of Tunisian Simple Stitch which I’m going to seam along the first and last rows.
Keep the last row you made closest to you, with the Right Side facing outwards.
Setting Up the Seam
The first thing we’re going to do, is add a little slip stitch to the two corners of our seam. This will ensure the edge of our work is smooth.
Find the V on the edge of your FIRST row and add a slip stitch to it.
2. Insert finger between sides to help control your work.
Now, we can get to the real seaming business:
This seam is made by “zipping” one side of your fabric to the other. We will be pulling each bar/line on the LAST row through each bar/line on the First row, and securing it there with a UK dc / US sc.
Here’s how:
Locate the nearest line/bar on the FIRST row
2. Insert hook into it
3. Locate the nearest line/bar on the LAST row
4. Insert hook into it
5. Secure LAST row loop with hook and…
6. Draw LAST row loop through FIRST row loop
First ‘zip’ complete
Time for a little traditional crochet!
* This seam won’t hold without a little help, so we’re going to add a UK dc / US sc st onto the loop left on the hook. Let’s do it!
1. Yarn Over.
2. Draw Yarn Over through one loop
3. Yarn Over again.
4. Draw Yarn Over through both loops
Repeat the “zip and secure” sequence for each pair of bars/lines on your seam until you get to the end.
It will look like this at this stage.
The inside of a completed (Almost) Invisible Seam.
There’s just one final thing to do; slip stitch into the two corners to smooth out the edge.
Here’s how:
1. Insert hook into both corners.
2. Yarn Over.
3. Draw Yarn Over through everything else on hook.
Bind off. Weave in ends. You know the drill.
Then, when you flip your fabric the right way out, you notice your seam is (almost) invisible, nice and strong and flexible!
A completed (Almost) Invisible Seam
SIDE NOTE: You may ask, “Hey, Aoibhe, why not use a slip stitch throughout the seam? Surely that’d take less time, use less yarn and sit flush with the fabric, right?”
And I’d say, yes, it would. Technically.
But also, slip stitches have zero stretch and zero chill.
Tunisian fabric has a lovely level of 4-way stretch, and if you add a non-stretchy seam to one part, it’s bound to cause shaping, comfort and blocking issues.
So, while a double crochet is, indeed, a little bigger, uses a little more yarn and takes more time to do, it’s still a better choice over all.
Tunisian Crochet seams can often look botched and ugly.
Here’s how to make your Tunisian Crochet garments and accessories look seamless!
Start With Some Tunisian Crochet
In this case, I have made a lovely piece of Tunisian Simple Stitch which I’m going to seam along the first and last rows.
Right Side in, Wrong Side out. Last Row furthest away from you.
Setting Up the Seam
The first thing we’re going to do, is add a little slip stitch to the two corners of our seam. This will ensure the edge of our work is smooth.
Find the V on the edge of your FIRST row.
2. Insert hook, from front to back, into it.
3. Yarn Over
4. Draw the Yarn Over through work and through loop on hook.
Now, we can get to the real seaming business:
This seam is made by “zipping” one side of your fabric to the other. We will be pulling each bar/line on the LAST row through each bar/line on the First row, and securing it there with a UK dc / US sc.
Here’s how:
Locate the nearest line/bar on the FIRST row
2. Insert hook into it
3. Locate the nearest line/bar on the LAST row
4. Insert hook into it
5. In order, from left to right: LAST row loop, FIRST row loop, loop that was already on the hook.
6. Draw LAST row loop through FIRST row loop
First ‘zip’ complete
Time for a little traditional crochet!
* This seam won’t hold without a little help, so we’re going to add a UK dc / US sc st onto the loop left on the hook. Let’s do it!
1. Yarn Over.
2. Draw Yarn Over through one loop
3. Yarn Over again.
4. Draw Yarn Over through both loops
Repeat the “zip and secure” sequence for each pair of bars/lines on your seam until you get to the end.
It will look like this at this stage.
A completed (Almost) Invisible Seam
There’s just one final thing to do; slip stitch into the two corners to smooth out the edge.
Here’s how:
1. Insert hook into both corners.
2. Yarn Over.
3. Draw Yarn Over through everything else on hook.
Bind off. Weave in ends. You know the drill.
Then, when you flip your fabric the right way out, you notice your seam is (almost) invisible, nice and strong and flexible!
A completed (Almost) Invisible Seam
SIDE NOTE: You may ask, “Hey, Aoibhe, why not use a slip stitch throughout the seam? Surely that’d take less time, use less yarn and sit flush with the fabric, right?”
And I’d say, yes, it would. But also, slip stitches have zero stretch and zero chill.
Tunisian fabric has a lovely level of 4-way stretch, and if you add a non-stretchy seam to one part, it’s bound to cause shaping, comfort and blocking issues.
So, while a double crochet is, indeed, a little bigger, uses a little more yarn and takes more time to do, it’s still a better choice over all.
How to increase the height of your Tunisian Crochet column, without leaving a hole in your fabric.
This is so quick to do. You’ll love it.
Start With Some Tunisian Crochet
In this case, I have a layer of crochet done, and have started into a second layer. The layer I’m working on is three bars high.
If you want to do the same, go ahead, I can wait. It’s no bother. I can just go make a cup of tea.
A layer of linked stitches.
Work the Downward Pass
Pick up loops in all the bars, as you have done for every column of the row so far. Don’t work into the next base just yet. We’ll get to that in a second.
Do you see the hole at the base of your PREVIOUS column? Work your hook into it.
Loops picked up. Hole at base of previous column visible to the left of thumb.
2. Hook into hole at base of previous column.
Yarn Over, and draw a loop through fabric.
This adds a loop to hook that wouldn’t have been there otherwise (an increase)
Yarn Over
2. Extra Loop
Now, we continue the Downward Pass by working hook into NEXT base:
Hook worked into NEXT base along.
Yarn Over, and draw a loop through to front of fabric:
Yarn Over
2. Pull through
Work Tunisian Crochet Upward Pass as usual
* Yarn Over, pull through two loops * repeatedly until one loop is left on hook.
The three bars are now accompanied by a fourth (at the bottom of the column).
You are now working with four bars where before, you only had three.
Here’s what a completed, taller layer will look like.
A three-bar layer has been transformed into a four-bar layer. Lovely job!
You have your first row of stitches complete, but now it’s time to start into the second row, and suddenly, everything looks different.
Here’s how you do it.
The Lay Of The Land.
Let’s look at what we’ve got.
In this instance, we have made 8 chains and skipped the one closest to the hook. Then, we used the other seven chains to make double crochet stitches. So far, so shiny.
a V-shape sits on top of every crochet stitch. Use them to count.
Make a turning chain
A ‘turning chain’ is just a regular chain stitch (Like the 8 chains we did at very the beginning). The only reason it has a different name is because it serves a different purpose.
In this case, it adds a little extra yarn to the edge of our fabric so that the edge won’t be tight and inelastic when we’re done.
Here’s how a chain is done:
Yarn Over
2. Pull ‘Yarn Over’ through loop on hook to complete ‘Turning Chain’.
Now, turn your work.
Orientation is key here. When your turn is done properly, your tail should be at the bottom of your work, your hook should be at the top (On the right for right-handed people and on the left for left-handed people)
Hook at the top and tail (under right thumb) at the bottom.
Now it’s time to find your V’s
There is a V-shape on top of every stitch, but right now, they’re on the side of your fabric facing away from you. Turn your work so that you’re able to see the top. You’ll to find your V’s there.
The 7 V-shapes we had originally have been joined by an eighth. The V closest to your hook is the one belonging to the ‘turning chain’.
Skip over the ‘turning chain’, and find the next V along.
That’s where we’re going to put our first double crochet of this row.
It’s just a case of using the same dance steps we did on the first row to make a double crochet.
Yarn Over
2. Pull ‘Yarn Over’ through to front of fabric.
3. Second Yarn Over
4. Pull ‘Yarn Over’ through BOTH of the loops on the hook. When you are back to one loop, the stitch is complete.
To begin our second stitch of this row, we need to look at the fabric we’ve made so far.
Under the double crochet we just completed, there is a hole. I have an arrow indicating its location in the next photo.
The hole tells you where you have already been.
This hole was made by your crochet hook when you created the last stitch. It tells you that you have already been in that section of fabric. So, when it’s time to insert your hook for double crochet number two, move to the left one space.
Hook inserted into SECOND stitch space, ready to make second double crochet
The second double crochet is created the same as the first. See photos below for a recap.
Yarn Over
2. Pull ‘Yarn Over’ through to front of fabric.
3. Second Yarn Over
4. Pull the ‘Yarn Over’ through BOTH of the loops on the hook. When you are back to one loop, the stitch is complete.
Rather, Rinse, Repeat.
Every double crochet stitch you make on this and every other row will be created like the one above.
When the row is done, you should have something that looks a little like the image below.
Gorgeous!
Note: When you being a new row, don’t forget your ‘turning chain’!
Have you ever considered the tension your yarn is under once it’s been wound into a cake or ball? One of the main reasons yarn is sold in a skein is to preserve its elasticity. So, from the second you wind it, it’s being held at a stretch.
Animal fibres in particular have a gorgeous spring to them. If you stretch them, they snap back on release. This elasticity gives a finished garment a bounce and a wearability that is a pleasure to behold.
But if these fibres are held at their limit for too long, they can lose that elasticity entirely. That’s why you should only wind your skeins when you intend to knit or crochet with them soon after. It’s also why those old balls of donated yarn tend to seem so lifeless – they’ve been held at a stretch for decades. Yikes.
Ball winders and swifts are an amazing piece of kit I believe every crafter should invest in, but there’s a pull between swift and winder, so even they can add tension to a newly-wound skein.
They’re actually the exact same skein. The one on the left has been wound directly from the skein on my swift. The one of the right is the same ball, wound from the first cake into a second, much more relaxed cake.
Look at the size difference! And imagine the tension the first one would have been under had I only wound it once.
Same exact skein of yarn, first wind (left) second wind (right)
So, tell me. Are you kind to your yarn? Do you ever rewind?
And if you haven’t done it before now, have I convinced you to start? I sure hope so! And I bet your yarn will thank you, too!
Oh! And… psst! The yarn I’ve pictured here is a beautiful skein of Ballyhoura Fibre yarn. It’s Cierra’s 4-ply sock in colourway “Pot Pourri”. Watch out for it in a pattern this autumn! You can find the link here: https://www.ballyhourafibres.com/
Ah, Pax. Pax, my beloved Tunisian crochet shawlette.
This is my most popular pattern (as much because I’ve priced it to be accessible to anyone wanting to learn Tunisian lace crochet, as because I kept it complication-free purely to keep the pattern simpler for beginners).
Occasionally, I get questions about it, though, and the majority of them are to do with starting out. Usually, I reply to beginner crocheters’ questions individually, but I thought “How great would it be if I updated Pax with a new photo tutorial?” It is 11 years old at this stage, and could do with sprucing up… so…
If you’ve got a copy of Pax, a crochet hook at the ready, and you’re not sure how to begin, let me help you out.
Today's Yarn, by the way, is Drops Flora.
It's a wool/alpaca blend that I'm currently obsessed with. It's warm, has great stitch definition and a wide range of colourways.
And my hook, as always is a beechwood KnitPro Symfonie - this one's my trusty 5 mm.
Make Some Chains
OK, so the pattern calls for way more chain stitches than this. I’ve made 20 chains here to demonstrate the technique, but you will be making way more when you start your own Pax adventure.
First things first, we need to take a look at our chains. We’re going to skip the chain closest to the hook, and work instead into the second chain along.
Find the second chain…
Push hook through top loop of chain
Hook is now completely through loop on second chain
Yarn Over on your hook, and draw that Yarn Over back through the chain. This will give you two loops on your hook –
The loop furthest from the hook head was there already.
The loop closest to the hook head is your first Tunisian Simple Stitch.
Yarn over
Draw through chain
The Forward Pass
We then do the same for the next chain along.
Important Note for Beginners: We ONLY skip the very first chain in Tunisian crochet. No other chains are skipped from this point on.
Find the next chain along
Push hook through
Yarn over…
Draw Yarn Over through chain
Every time we repeat this process, we add a loop to the hook. When we have added ten stitches, we’ll have eleven loops in total (that includes the one that was there from the beginning)
11 loops = 10 stitches
For this tutorial, this completes our “Forward Pass”.
In Tunisian Crochet, we have two “Passes” per row of work. The “Forward Pass” that we have just completed sees loops being added to the hook. The “Return Pass” will see us remove stitches as we work until we are back to one loop on the hook.
Between the Forward and Return Passes in Pax we have an extra dance step to do, and it involves the next chain along on our string of chains.
Working the “Base”
I want you to identify the next chain along, work your hook into it, Yarn Over, and draw a final loop onto your hook. A note on this loop: It is created the exact same way as all the loops before it, but its job is very different. It’s not counted as a stitch because it is, in fact, the base of the column. This will become clear as we work on.
There are now 12 loops on the hook That’s 1 at the start, 10 Tunisian Simple Stitches, and 1 base loop
The Return Pass
The Return Pass is easily my favourite bit of this whole process. It require far less concentration and is oddly satisfying.
All you have to do to complete the entire Return Pass is to *Yarn Over on your hook, and draw it through two loops* repeatedly, until you are left with one loop on your hook.
Yarn Over
Drawing through two loops
After the second repeat you start to see the row/colum forming in your hook’s wake
When you’re at that point, you’ve completed your row/column!
Foundation Row/Column complete
As you can make out in the above photo, the row/column we have completed has ten little rung or lines evenly spaced down its length. In the above photo they are vertical, look like little fence posts, and start at my right thumb nail and travel down the fabric to my left thumb nail.
We’re going to use these lines to anchor our second row/column.
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Row/Column 2
Slide hook through the first of these lines, like a bolt locking a door. We stay on the Right Side of the work for this. There’s no neeed to push through to the Wrong Side at all from hereon in.
Original loop on hook (right) and vertical line (left)
Then, same as before, we simply Yarn Over, and draw the yarn over through the line, giving us two loops on the hook.
Yarn Over
Draw through
Then, we find the next line along, and slide the hook through that.
Next line along
And we do the same thing – Yarn Over, pull through.
Yarn Over
Draw through – 3 loops on hook
Now, it’s just a matter of carrying on down, picking up loops using each of the available lines.
Ten loops added to hook for a total of eleven loops
With the Forward Pass complete, we work The Base into the next chain along:
Hook in next chain along…
Yarn Over
Draw through – 1 more loop added to hook There are 12 in total now
With that taken care of, we get to do the Return Pass for the row/column. That’s *Yarn Over, draw through 2 loops* repeatedly until 1 loop is left on hook.
2 rows/columns complete
Row/Column 3
With another whole row/column complete, this is what you’ll be looking at:
3 rows/columns complete
More Rows/Columns
After another few completed rows/columns, you’ll start to notice your dangling chains aren’t so dangly anymore. Each row/column uses up one at its base, and adds some strength to that edge of your shawl and helps ensure the completed shawl blocks into a gentle curve.
6 rows/columns complete
I hope this tutorial helps you get started on your own Pax Adventure!
You can find the pattern (using both UK and US crochet terms) here:
And remember, small, independent businesses like mine can only make it work through word of mouth, so leave a review if you liked this pattern, tell a friend if you loved it, and don’t forget to tweet about it too!
It’s hard to imagine, but sometimes, Dear Reader LESS Tunisian Crochet is called for. And in those moments, knowing how to decrease is a boon.
In my Reoite Gloves, we use decreases to add a little shape to the fabric. This ensures that we have a cuff that sits comfortably on the wider part of the arm, as well as a glove that sits snug at the wrist and knuckles with no room for pesky drafts to sneak in.
Here’s how the TSS2tog (Tunisian Simple Stitch 2 together) is made.
Work the pattern up to the point where you need to make a TSS2tog:
Part of the Forward Pass on this row of Tunisian Simple Stitch is complete.
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Draw Yarn Over through the two bars on hook:
You have created a TSS2tog stitch by making one loop (on hook) out of two bars (on previous row).
When you complete the rest of the row, you can see a little upsidedown V shape indicating the point you worked the TSS2tog decrease.
The decrease will appear one row LOWER than you may expect. Remember that if you use them to count rows.
Note: The Return Pass is worked as normal i.e. Yarn Over, draw through 1 loop to make a chain stitch, then *Yarn Over, draw through 2 loops* repeatedly to end of row.
Imagine a world, dear readers, where your favourite ball of yarn never ran out – a world where that downy alpaca, shimmering silk or soft merino slid continuously between your industrious fingers and into project after glorious project.
I’ll leave you with that image for a moment… It’s worth savouring the idea, isn’t it?
Alas, of course, this is merely a dream. The reality is that yarn runs out and it’s a rare project indeed that doesn’t require you to join the end of one ball of yarn to the beginning of another.
“I just knot it”, is a common refrain when I bring up this topic in a beginners’ class, and indeed, that is a valid way of solving the problem, but there are better ways, smoother ways, and since I can’t find much on this topic for Tunisian Crochet, I’m going to run you through my favourite joining method below.
The Return Pass Join: This little trick works well for both solid fabrics and lace. The idea here is that the joined yarns will be partially woven in as you work, and therefore won’t disrupt the look of the stitches you’ve made.
And since the join only disrupts the return pass on a row of Tunisian, any lace detail worked on the forward pass will remain totally uninterrupted.
In the sample below, I’m working on a solid TSS fabric (because this is what I have to hand. More in this project in autumn).
^ When you are nearing the end of your current ball, work the forward pass of the next row as usual, and begin the return pass.
^ A few sts into the return pass, pause, and introduce your new ball strand. Lie them so there are a few inches extra on either side of the overlap.
^ Hold strands together using your working hand. Use your other hand to hold new strand against fabric so that it’s out of the way.
^ With both strands held together in your working hand, Yarn Over. Remember, your other hand is still holding the new end against the back of your fabric so that it won’t be a nuisance.
^ Draw that double-stranded Yarn Over through 2 loops. You will notice that the loop closest to the hook is now double-stranded. This is good. This means your new and your old balls are sharing duty and you’re half-way transferred from one ball to the other.
^ It’s time now to drop the new ball’s strand that you’ve been holding in your other hand. It’s secure enough in the fabric now that it won’t slide out on you as you work. In this image, I’ve the end of the new strand in my left hand, and I’m about to drop it.
From this point on, you can carry on with your new ball and complete the return pass as usual.
^ Can you see the join? It’s right there in the middle. Slide your finger back and forth to see. Neat, huh?
^ Here’s a picture of the back when you’re all doing joining and have a few extra rows worked beyond.
Now, all you have holding those ends together is half a stitch, remember, and that’s a lot of trust to place in so tiny a piece of crochet, so I recommend you weave both ends in separately before you go to town with a scissors.
And so, dear crafters, I leave you with a puzzle. In the image below, there is a join.
It is a truth universally acknowledged that a beginner, in possession of a large yarn ball, must be in want of a scarf.
And the majority of makers would agree that embarking on a scarf is the one thing a beginner shouldn’t do.
Nooooooooo! They will lose the will to live! A little pouch (or similar) is probably best IMO.
— Benadryl Thundercat (@_hieroglyphe_) May 7, 2021
As any experienced maker will tell you, a beginner who casts on for a scarf as a first project is unlikely to finish it. The problem is, scarves are loooooong, and usually, after about the first six inches or so, a beginner has a good handle on the stitches they’re learning.
After the initial rush – casting on their first project (yippee!) – there’s then no satisfying follow-through. A scarf is 5 to 6 feet of unvarying uniformity, and the slog can easily wind up giving a newbie the impression that crochet and knitting are repetitive, monotonous hobbies.
Ugh.
That kind of endurance test is something to build up to, though, but initially, a smaller project makes more sense. Feeling that sense of accomplishment is a HUGE part of what gets beginners hooked.
I recommend washcloths and/or hats instead. Get those “I made this!” endorphins helping to cheer them on. Scarves, especially all garter stitch affairs, can feel neverending and are a test of an experienced crafters patience let alone a newbie without a love for the process yet
— Síle (she-la) #WearYourMask #BLM (@knit1dance2) May 6, 2021
Beginners are far better off making something small at the start, but unfortunately, many newbie makers equate “simple project” with “satisfying experience”, and in the end quit when their scarf bores them to tears. They’re left with a sense of failure that is entirely undeserved.
Of course, there are those who disagree:
I made loads of scarves… for myself… and as presents for everyone… excellent early crochet projects…
But in case you’re one of the many who fell down a scarf hole, I’ve compiled a list of alternative things anyone can make with failed scarf “fragments”.
No matter how far into that 6 feet of blah you managed to get, there’s definitely a way of folding, twisting or seaming your scarf fragment into something magnificent, useful, and most importantly, FINISHED!
So, get out your random rectangle of fabric from the bottom of your stash, cast it off, thread your darning needle and prepare to bathe in a wholly deserved sense of accomplishment & satisfaction!
Let’s get into it!
any size of scarf fragment can be turned into a finished object
Neck Warmer 10 in x 36 in/3 ft will get you a practical and cozy neck warmer. Half the work for all the comfort.
How To: Option 1. Lie fabric flat, fold in half and seam starting and ending rows together to make a ring.
How To: Option 2. Lie fabric flat, add a half twist to fabric, then seam starting and ending rows together to make a mobius strip.
Teapot Cozy 10 in x 24 in / 2 ft and your scarf fragment with keep your tea warm instead.
How To: Lie fabric flat, fold in half and seam selvedges together to make a pocket.
Pixie Hat 10 in x 24 in / 2 ft is enough to make an adorable hat with a pixie point. To really keep the draft out, add a button and loop or ties to fasten under your chin.
How To: Lie fabric flat, fold in half and seam one selvedge together. Add ties or a button and loop to unseamed corners.
Woolly Hat 10 in x 21 – 22 in will net you a classic. Just seam into a loop, and pull one side closed with a draw string and you’ll be so cozy you won’t even need that scarf.
How To: Lie fabric flat, fold in half and seam starting and ending rows together. Weave a strand of yarn along entirety of one selvedge, pull yarn tight and secure with a knot.
Add a bobble, if you’re feeling fancy.
Pot Holder 10 in x 12 in will get you a pot holder. A nice steaming casserole is better than a silly old scarf, right?!
How To: Add a loop to one corner. For a more heat-resistant pot holder, use a feltable yarn. Then, shrink it in your next load of laundry.
Fingerless Glove 10 in x 7 – 8 in, and you have enough for my own personal favourite beginner project. Only drawback, you usually have to make two!
How To: Lie fabric flat. Fold narrowest edge in half. Seam along longest edge, leaving a thumb gap in the middle of the seam.
Coffee Cozy 10 in x 6 in and your 8-cup coffee press will have a scarf of its very own.
How To: Lie fabric flat. Fold narrowest edge in half. Securely stitch corners together. Gap between corners is where the coffee press’s handle will go
Phone Pocket Ever had your phone stop working because it’s just too cold out? Well, I have! 10 in x 6 in would stop that from happening when you’re out and about in January.
How To: Lie fabric flat. Fold in half. Seam long edges, leaving one opening. Add loop and button.
Pin Cushion Just the ticket for when that scarf you started barely got off the ground. The nice thing about pin cushions is that they can be any shape or size.
How To: Lie fabric flat. Fold in half. Seam two edges, stuff with polyfill, then seam final edge.
Coaster Honorary mention. Put your swatches and tiny tests to good use as mug coasters. Be aware, though, open-work (like lace) will not protect your surfaces, nor will non-insulating yarns like acrylic.
The easiest of all! Weave in ends. That’s it. That’s all you have to do.
Did you enjoy this tutorial? Tell me in the comments below! And hey, tell your friends too!
Oh my gosh, the CURL! It’s the bane of a Tunisian Crocheter’s day, isn’t it? Curing the curl seems almost impossible, but never fear! I’m here to help.
I’ve gathered up a few of my favourite solutions to this perennial problem. Let’s get right into it!
Firstly, WHY does Tunisian Crochet curl as enthusiastically as an overly-amorous octopus?
It’s all to do with the way Tunisian is constructed.
Much like stocking stitch in knitting, most of the yarn in a row of Tunisian Crochet is concentrated to the wrong side of the fabric – essentially, there’s lots of pressure on the back of a piece of Tunisian and the front hasn’t got the strength to push against it, so the fabric curls forward.
This is more noticable in some stitches – Tunisian Knit Stitch is a particularly emphatic curler – but there are ways to lessen this tendency, and methods you can employ from the very start of a project to help you avoid the dreaded curl.
1. Choose your hook wisely.
Since the problem lies in the density of the yarn on the back of your fabric, a good solution is to help it relax by loosening the fabric all over. The simplest way to do that is to go up a hook size or two.
The fabric on the left was made with a 6 mm hook. The fabric on the right was made with a 4.5 mm hook.
If you’re a crocheter who’s new to Tunisian, you may be thinking: “Won’t that result in a project full of holes?!” Luckily, the answer is “No”.
Think of Tunisian as a knit fabric made with a crochet hook. Knitting is more forgiving than crochet when it comes to changing needle size and thankfully, Tunisian shares this trait.
So going up a few hook sizes will give your Tunisian a chance to relax and the curl will all but disappear. Remember, though, this will also result in a BIGGER finished object, so if you’re following a pattern, be sure to pay close attention to the tension info first and foremost.
Check these projects out. They all use lace-weight or fingering weight yarn, and a 5 mm hook or larger.
Choose a project that solves the problem by seaming the first and last rows together. You can use any seaming technique you prefer for this. The very act of sticking the first and last rows together means the curl is totally eliminated.
By seaming the first and last row the curl can be eliminated completely.
After all, if your fabric is made into a tube, there’s nowhere for the curl to curl to, right?
These patterns all feature seams that stop the curl.
“If you want Tunisian to stay flat, block it til it squeaks!” a friend of mine once said, and while I agree with that in theory, I try to be a little more gentle with my own projects.
“Blocking” involves submerging your project in cold water until it’s fully saturated before removing it, gently rolling it up in a towel and pressing the water out of it. (I like to roll my shawls up in a giant beach towel before standing on them barefoot. It’s a moment full of triumph for me, like standing on the peak of a mountain!)
Much like the washing instruction that says to “lay flat to dry, reshape while damp”, blocking allows some measure of control over the final shape you get from your crochet.
Then, the damp project is laid out to dry using a blocking mat (a yoga mat, a child’s giant foam jigsaw, or a handy spare mattress strewn with towels are all good alternatives) and pinned in place to dry. Once dry, the fabric will retain the shape is was pinned in, so if it was pinned flat, it’ll stay flat.
Bear in mind, this technique won’t work as efficiently with acrylic/acrylic blend yarns as they don’t relax in water in the same manner. Similarly, anything particularly high in soft and fluffy fibres, like angora or cashmere, will appear to block well – even after you remove the pins – but after a short time will relax back to its original shape.
It’s best to keep those fibres for projects that don’t need blocking to look their best.
Tunisian Lace benefits particularly from being blocked. These patterns all feature lace eyelets that pop after blocking!
Tunisian crochet is a beautiful and versatile craft, and like its cousins – crochet and knitting – there are many things it does extremely well.
If you reframe its tendency to curl into an advantage, you may be able to include it in your next project as a positive feature. How about a rolled sleeve on your next sweater? Or a thick cozy brim on a wooly winter hat? You could make yourself a crochet hook holder that’s just dying to roll up and protect all your precious tools from the elements!
No fabric characteristic is ever entirely negative – it’s all about what you do with it – so if your project would benefit from a cheery curl, why go to the trouble to getting rid of it at all?
Did you enjoy this tutorial? Tell me in the comments below! And hey, tell your friends too!
Legendary Shawls 1€20.00
Anansi€6.00
Finola€4.50
