Author: A Ni

Setting up for casting off

Here’s where we’re starting: a nice sheet of stocking stitch on 4.5 mm knitting needles.

We’re going to use a 4.5 mm crochet hook to cast these stitches off.

Ideally, your hook should be around the same size as your needles. A little smaller can also work, for a neater edge, but try to avoid going much bigger; the edge will tend to frill (unless that’s what you want, in which case, go for it!)

Insert hook, knitwise into first stitch.

Slip first stitch off needle and hold on hook.

Insert hook into next stitch on needle.

Draw yarn between hook and needle, travelling OVER the hook, between the needle and hook, then UNDER the hook.
(Knitters: This Yran Over is worked in the opposite direction to the way many of you usually work, so take note of that as you go).

Using hook, draw Yarn Over through closest loop to hook head. Then push the stitch that’s still on the needle off it. You now have two loops on your hook.

Yarn Over hook (same direction as before)

Draw Yarn Over through both loops on hook.

You are left with one loop on your hook and your first knit stitch cast off.

Begin casting off next stitch on needle by inserting hook knitwise.

From here, we’re repating the cast off process from the first Yarn Over.

That’s your second stitch cast off.

When you repeat this for a while, you’ll start to see your crochet stitches build up behind your hook like this:

Okay, now.

To cast off your cast off row, work until you only have one loop on your hook and your needle has no stitches left.

Then, Yarn Over…

Break yarn, and dra-a-a-a-aw end through loop…

…until it pops through.

Then, pull end to tighten the little knot in the corner of your fabric.

And that’s your fabric totally bound off!

Don’t forget to weave in your ends, though!

Back To Top

---

Like what you see? Check these out!

When my Mam taught me to crochet, she did so by handing me a Granny Square blanket she was working on, and teaching me to treble crochet clusters into her already beautifully crocheted fabric.

I focussed on the stitches, on how they danced around my hook, and how the fabric grew under my fingers as I crocheted towards the corner. Then she showed me how to add enough stitches to veer around it and start on the next straight side.

Because I didn’t have to struggle with magic loops or counting or seams, I was able to learn to love the craft from the moment I began, and it’s that reason I think this modified “one block” granny square pattern makes for the perfect pattern to introduce a new-comer to the craft.

Now, bare in mind crocheters, YOU will have to make the first 4 rows for your prospective crochet genius before you hand it over, but once you do, the rules simplify to a point where a beginner, even with very little crafting experience, can pick up the rhythm and crochet confidently.

Starting your gorgeous Granny Square

Note: This pattern is written using UK stitch terminology.

Make 6 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch into chain furthest from hook to make a loop.

Round 1.
Into the loop, make 1 dc, 1 htr, 14 tr.

Note: This Granny Square has NO seams at the start or end of a round. In fact, because it’s worked in an ever-increasing spiral, there technically is no start or end of a round. As my Mam says, you simply crochet this square until you either run out of yarn or run out of patience – whichever comes first.

Round 2.

Into the gap between htr and 1^st tr, make [3 tr].

*sk 2 sts, work [3 tr] into next gap*, 6 times.
(This gives you 8 clusters, each with 3 trebles in them and 8 “gaps” between them.)

Round 3.

*Into next gap, make [6 tr], into next gap make [3 tr]

Repeat the above, 3 times.

Note: The 6-tr clusters are your corners, the 3-tr clusters make up the sides of your square.

Does it look a little wonky and warped? Sure!
It’s a spiral with corners after all, so it’s always going to be a little off-kilter. (Who among us isn’t a little wonky, though, right?)

But as I said in the intro, this is a great pattern to teach someone to make Granny Squares. It’s not an award winning masterpiece; it’s a starter kit.

Round 4.

Into middle of next 6-tr cluster make [6 tr], *into next gap make [3 tr]* twice.

Repeat for other the corners and three sides.

At this point, your Granny Square should have four identifiable corners, and enough gaps between clusters that your beginner has space to learn and practice.

After this, it’s simply a matter of remembering the two basic rules of Granny Square manufacture:

1. When you encounter a gap, put three trebles in it.
2. When you see a corner, split it in two and add 6 trebles in the middle.

Granny Squares are just pure, logical genius. So, if you follow those rules, your One Square Granny will be a success.

Once your beginner has a little practice, and muscle memory has started to develop, you can add chains between the clusters, or teach them a more complex square pattern with seamed rows, or multiple colours. But I guarantee you, this will remain a favourite thanks to its simplicity, its gorgeous texture and the fact that, with a little experience, you can carry on crocheting while watching TV and not miss a stitch!

Folks, I’m happy for you to use this pattern to teach classes and individuals.
All I ask is that if you get paid for teaching this using pattern, that you refer back to this page and link your students to it and my work.

Back To Top

---

Like what you see? Check these out!

You have your first row of stitches complete, but now it’s time to start into the second row, and suddenly, everything looks different.

Here’s how you do it.

The Lay Of The Land.

Let’s look at what we’ve got.

In this instance, we have made 8 chains and skipped the one closest to the hook.
Then, we used the other seven chains to make double crochet stitches.
So far, so shiny.

Make a turning chain

A ‘turning chain’ is just a regular chain stitch (Like the 8 chains we did at very the beginning). The only reason it has a different name is because it serves a different purpose.

In this case, it adds a little extra yarn to the edge of our fabric so that the edge won’t be tight and inelastic when we’re done.

Here’s how a chain is done:

Now, turn your work.

Orientation is key here. When your turn is done properly, your tail should be at the bottom of your work, your hook should be at the top (On the right for right-handed people and on the left for left-handed people)

Now it’s time to find your V’s

There is a V-shape on top of every stitch, but right now, they’re on the side of your fabric facing away from you. Turn your work so that you’re able to see the top. You’ll to find your V’s there.

Skip over the ‘turning chain’, and find the next V along.

That’s where we’re going to put our first double crochet of this row.

It’s just a case of using the same dance steps we did on the first row to make a double crochet.

To begin our second stitch of this row, we need to look at the fabric we’ve made so far.

Under the double crochet we just completed, there is a hole. I have an arrow indicating its location in the next photo.

This hole was made by your crochet hook when you created the last stitch. It tells you that you have already been in that section of fabric. So, when it’s time to insert your hook for double crochet number two, move to the left one space.

The second double crochet is created the same as the first. See photos below for a recap.

Rather, Rinse, Repeat.

Every double crochet stitch you make on this and every other row will be created like the one above.

When the row is done, you should have something that looks a little like the image below.

Note: When you being a new row, don’t forget your ‘turning chain’!

Back To Top

---

Like what you see? Check these out!