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Of loss and love and renewal

We’re two weeks into the New Year already.

My new Brรญd.

And now that my new and improved Brรญd shawl sample is complete, it’s time to get cracking on Ard Rรญ.

Now, despite the gorgeous colours and stunning texture of Tara St 4-ply by Townhouse Yarns, I have found myself reluctant to get going.

Firstly, losing the original was a real blow. I loved that shawl. I loved that exact shawl. Not just the pattern, not just the look of it; the physical piece that existed in my universe.

Because you see, I have a lot of emotion wrapped up in that first Ard Ri.

Firstly, there’s joy. A lot of joy.

It was one half of a two-shawl collaboration with a wonderful knitwear designer named Julie Dubreux (she who Knits in Paris I’m certain you’re familiar.) We got together, decided to make two shawls – hers knit, mine crochet – using the same exact yarns and a similar starting point for inspiration. Julie was a wonder to work with. Encouraging and enthusiastic, open and creative. I started us off, she kept us going. I 100% love this lady. Top class human. No notes.

Left: Aoibhe Crochets in Meath. Right: Julie Knits in Paris.

So, whenever I took my Ard Ri out of my trunk during class I’d thank my collaboration with her for its inception.

Ard Rรญ also embodied pride in my work.

During each trunk show and each class I could 100% guarantee a gasp from my audience when I fourished its folds away. Like a stand-up comedian taking a sip of water, I knew to hold for a beat as it was examined by the sea of eyes in front of me. Comments abounded; it looked like it was covered in wine bottles (truly a pandemic design, then), it looked like an art deco background, a halo, something vaguely pharaonic when held upside-down. It was described as Afro-futuristic a few times, too.

And I – theatre kid that I am – lapped up the commentary.

But then, there’s also a lot of slower, sadder feelings residing in its fabric, too.

It was my first creation mid-pandemic. My first project started and completed while cooped up in my home, vulnerable and isolated, cloistered and forgotten while the world around me grew more and more dangerous to my unprotected, diabetic body. Every stitch included a little of the thought “this could be the last thing I design”. Maybe that’s why I made it so grand and enveloping and mighty. Maybe it was my shield.

And to top it all off, we’d only just lost our beautiful dog, Rosie. So, when Townhouse Yarns asked me name one of the colourways, I named the golden one “Rosie’s Gold” in her memory. It’s golden, like the flecks in her brown eyes, and it’s warmed by the blush of pink on her chin.

Rosie: Still profoundly missed every single day. What a beauty! (and those teef bubbles! <3)

I spoke to those original golden skeins and told them all about my lost dog, whispering into them as I wound them into cakes, and then I crocheted that grief straight into the fabric. I’m sure I’m not the only one who weaves memories of their life into their work. Intentional or no, I’m sure you do, too.

And maybe that’s why my Ard Ri re-make has been a tough project to start into; each stitch ahead of me on the road contains the loss of a beloved buddy, the fear of the first months of the pandemic, but also now, the loss of the original object holding on to all that emotion.

Perversely, this new one will also guard the newer grief at losing our second dog, Korra – no less dear than Rosie had been.

Our stunning Korra Bear. (Anyone wanna name a yarn colourway after her?)

Grief comes in threes, they say, and though there have been other losses and shocks and trials between Rosie and the Pandemic and Korra, no others are so connected to this pattern. So maybe that’s it for a while. Parhaps Ard Ri can now rest and let some other, newer shawl take care of the future.

And maybe as these new stitches describe an old, retrodden path, I can use it like a spell to wrap and bind and dance around these three griefs, and maybe the shawl that results will be a new sheild, tempered by what went before.

And maybe, as before, when I unfurl it in class, the fascination and glee it inspires will prove to be just the medicine my broken heart needs.

Ard Ri begun anew. A smile I wasn’t expecting.
The ball on the right is the little bit I had left over from making the original. I used it for the first full row. A suitable first step on the journey, I think.




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Brรญd’s New Day

The holidays were busy here at Yarn Towers.

I managed to eat three Christmas dinners within the space of 24 hours – not unusual since I cook two of them, and refuse to miss my mother’s cooking on top of all that – but any snatches of time I had to spare were spent remaking my Brรญd shawl.

I know I said I was gonna take a break from it to work on Ard Rรญ, but honestly, the chugging along on Brรญd was remarkably soothing, and the regular repeats were something I could do a little of even after the longest day.

So, all through Solstice, and Christmas, and New Years I chipped away at it.

The sun, lowering on Solstice night
The first of three Christmas dinners
A beautiful tortoiseshell butterfly. Her timing was perfect. New Year, new life. (Don’t worry. She’s now back to hibernating happily in our coldest room)

Sometimes, I did three in one evening, sometimes I did one, but slowly and surely, she grew until I had a mass of fabric gathering on my lap, each new panel added more twisting and righting to each turn of my work.

It seemed that the second half took less time than the first, though that might have been because much of it was done in that wobbly, weird mush of time between Christmas and New Years that no-one seems to be able to keep track of.

My original stash.
Four Ceremony, one Selkie
First Five Panels
15 panels complete.

(In fact, maybe that’s the key to solving second sock syndrome and sleeve island. Leave those projects until the last week of December and do them then?)

And now, as of yesterday, I have 32 panels complete.

My original was a broad, sweeping half circle, but I found that blocking it – and keeping the end panel’s shapes consistent with the rest – was a challenge.

The original Brรญd – now lost forever in the Spanish postal system.

So, this time, with a slightly altered pattern in hand (and a colour swap that I am thrilled I went for), I opted to make a full circle, and seam it prior to blocking. That way I ensured all the panels came out the same.

Brรญd 2.0 pinned down and drying on my studio floor

In the end, a full circle required 32 panels, so that’s what I did.

All told, I used 170 m of the lush, blue Selkie colourway, and 520 m of the glowing goldenrod that is Ceremony.
In real terms, that means you’d need one skein of Selkie and three of Ceremony if you wanted to do the same, and you’d have enough of both left over afterwards to make a hat or something, too.

Next step for me is to wait patiently for it to dry in the middle of my studio floor, then decide if I like it as a circle (doubled over to make a neck warmer), or if I’ll tink the seam and make it a long, curving scarf like its predecessor that I can fasten with a shawl pin (read: crochet hook).

Which do you think would work best?




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New (old?) yarn adventure, and progress on Brรญd

Itโ€™s not often I get to say โ€œThe usual, please!โ€ to anyone, but when it comes to Townhouse Yarns and their Tara 4-ply, thatโ€™s kinda what I got to do a few days ago.

You see, Ard Rรญ, my “accidental wine bottle” shawl was one of the two that went missing in transit to a yarn festival. It’s always the shawl that gets me the biggest gasp during a trunk show or a workshop, and since I survive on audience feedback like a zombie needs brains, it is absolutely essential to remake it exactly as it was before. No messing around.

Close-up of hands holding a crocheted shawl with a striped pattern in warm brown and purple hues, showcasing the texture and intricate design.
Close up
A woman with long hair holds a large, intricately crocheted shawl, showcasing its circular design and contrasting colors, against a pink background.
Not-so-close up

My first step (after some liberal sobbing) was to contact Townhouse Yarns to ask if they’d even be able to reproduce the two yarns I needed. It’s been some years since I worked on this one – 2020, mid-pandemic, to be exact – and the gold – despite its stunning warm, antique appearance – isn’t a regular on their rotation. I’d need at least three skeins.

Luckily, Jenny had the recipe filed carefully away in an old notebook and through whatever acrane witchcraft she wields in her dye studio, she was able not just to dye these for me in a matter of days, but to reproduce it so exactly that I can’t tell the difference between old and new.

A hand holding a brown yarn ball next to several skeins of golden and purple yarns with labels from Townhouse Yarns, laid on a wooden surface.
Little ball of the original “Rosie’s Gold” (left), New skeins (right)

Tara 4-ply is a blend of Superwash Merino, Silk and Yak; all of which make it a great choice for a tunisian crochet shawl.

Superwash wool in general has a tendency to s-t-r-e-t-c-h when it’s first washed, and that quality (which can be a bummer in clothing that’s meant to fit a certain size) not only means this shawl grows after you’re done crocheting, but it adds drape, too.
The silk, on the other hand, ensures that the superwash doesn’t over-do it. Silk is brilliant for structure, and holds its shape really well once it’s blocked and dried.
And the yak, well, apart from adding softness and warmth and a silvery hue to everything, is also just a fun fibre to include.

A hand holding a skein of Tara 4-ply yarn labeled 'Rosie's Gold', showcasing its rich golden-brown colors.
Rosie’s Gold – yum yum yum

I’ll be taking a break from my progress on Brรญd now that I’ve eaten up the first of the Ceremony skeins, and then I’ll wind some Rosie’s Gold and get started on Ard Rรญ.

A close-up of a crocheted shawl in progress, featuring warm orange yarn and a turquoise trim, with a hand sewing the edge. Several skeins of golden yarn are in the background.
Progress on Brรญd. The original contained 30 panels, so this means I’m about half of the way through

But I’m curious if you think I should include the original ball of Rosie’s Gold in this new shawl?
Kind of like passing the torch?

Or should I do a completely new copy, with all its own, shiny new yarn?

Catharsis or nostalgia, people?! I don’t know which way to lean!

A person holding two skeins of Townhouse Yarns' Tara 4-ply yarn, one in a rich golden-brown and the other a smaller bundle. In the background, additional skeins in various colors can be seen in a bowl.
Comparing and contrasting old and new dye lots.




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Brรญd Reborn?

Those of you who have been to one of my trunk shows or tutorials know that I ask people to be very careful not to snag my crochet shawl samples on rings, brooches and zips, because I am wholly incapable of remaking a piece when I’ve already done it before.

(This is why I only have one single mitten in each design made, for instance. Second Sock Syndrome is real, y’all.)

For me, it’s discovery that keeps the wind in my sails and helps me pile row upon row, stitch after stitch until I see the final piece complete.

But.

Oh my god. I find myself in the position this winter where I have to remake not ONE sample, but TWO.

a woman stands in front of a pink wall, her hair is long and blonde and she's wearing a gold and purple colourwork shawl over her shoulders, head and pinned at her chest
Ard Ri
Brรญd

Several weeks ago, two samples loaned out to display at a fibre festival went missing in transit, and have since been deemed ‘unrecoverable’. It’s a blow, I won’t lie; the samples in question were some of my favourites and some of my proudest work. Both are hard to lose.

Ard Rรญ was my show-stopper. She’s always been a crowd pleaser, and the yarn (Love you, Townhouse Yarns!) is just divine.
And Brรญd – never released as a pattern – is an essential bit of kit because it’s the shawl I teach for Knittingtours.com‘s incredibly popular Fairytales & Flowers tour.

Now, it’d be easy to blame myself for letting them out of my sight and for not anticipating the possibility of losing them, but three things are important to remember here:

One. This is far from the first time they’ve gone on holidays,
Two. This also is far from the first time Knitting Tours have borrowed them and returned them with care, attention and gratitude,
And thirdly, these two shawls are also a great way to advertise my involvement with them and I have always felt the risk was worth it.

So, no blame please to them. They always treat me and the people who take their tours incredibly well. I’m still working with them, I’ll still lend them samples in the future. I love them all dearly. This wasn’t their doing and it wasn’t my doing. It was solidly the delivery company’s fault, and they too, are making amends.

But. That all doesn’t take away from the fact that I have to remake these pieces with a brain that abhors creative repitition and craves novelty like a 5-year-old coming down from a sugar high.

Eriรบ Yarns – Soft Yarn in ‘Ceremony’ and ‘Selkie’


With that in mind, and with the first batch of new yarn in hand (thank you Eriรบ Yarns!) I have decided to improve Brรญd in new and interesting ways, and to not only swap the colours around, but also to use a new, softer Eriรบ yarn. That way I hope to trick myself into behaving as I re-crochet this piece.

Wish me luck!


How it started…
How it’s going.


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Aoibhe’s (Almost) Invisible Tunisian Crochet Seam – for the Wrong Side

Tunisian Crochet seams can often look botched and ugly.

Here’s how to make your Tunisian Crochet garments and accessories look seamless!

Start With Some Tunisian Crochet

In this case, I have made a lovely piece of Tunisian Simple Stitch which I’m going to seam along the first and last rows.

Keep the last row you made closest to you, with the Right Side facing outwards.

Setting Up the Seam

The first thing we’re going to do, is add a little slip stitch to the two corners of our seam. This will ensure the edge of our work is smooth.

  1. Find the V on the edge of your FIRST row and add a slip stitch to it.

2. Insert finger between sides to help control your work.

Now, we can get to the real seaming business:


This seam is made by “zipping” one side of your fabric to the other.
We will be pulling each bar/line on the LAST row through each bar/line on the First row, and securing it there with a UK dc / US sc.

Here’s how:

  1. Locate the nearest line/bar on the FIRST row

2. Insert hook into it

3. Locate the nearest line/bar on the LAST row

4. Insert hook into it

5. Secure LAST row loop with hook and…

6. Draw LAST row loop through FIRST row loop

First ‘zip’ complete

Time for a little traditional crochet!

* This seam won’t hold without a little help, so we’re going to add a UK dc / US sc st onto the loop left on the hook.
Let’s do it!

1. Yarn Over.

2. Draw Yarn Over through one loop

3. Yarn Over again.

4. Draw Yarn Over through both loops

Repeat the “zip and secure” sequence for each pair of bars/lines on your seam until you get to the end.

It will look like this at this stage.

The inside of a completed (Almost) Invisible Seam.

There’s just one final thing to do; slip stitch into the two corners to smooth out the edge.

Here’s how:

1. Insert hook into both corners.

2. Yarn Over.

3. Draw Yarn Over through everything else on hook.

Bind off. Weave in ends. You know the drill.

Then, when you flip your fabric the right way out, you notice your seam is (almost) invisible, nice and strong and flexible!

A completed (Almost) Invisible Seam

SIDE NOTE: You may ask, “Hey, Aoibhe, why not use a slip stitch throughout the seam? Surely that’d take less time, use less yarn and sit flush with the fabric, right?”

And I’d say, yes, it would. Technically.

But also, slip stitches have zero stretch and zero chill.

Tunisian fabric has a lovely level of 4-way stretch, and if you add a non-stretchy seam to one part, it’s bound to cause shaping, comfort and blocking issues.

So, while a double crochet is, indeed, a little bigger, uses a little more yarn and takes more time to do, it’s still a better choice over all.

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Aoibhe’s (Almost) Invisible Tunisian Crochet Seam – for the Right Side

Tunisian Crochet seams can often look botched and ugly.

Here’s how to make your Tunisian Crochet garments and accessories look seamless!

Start With Some Tunisian Crochet

In this case, I have made a lovely piece of Tunisian Simple Stitch which I’m going to seam along the first and last rows.

Right Side in, Wrong Side out. Last Row furthest away from you.

Setting Up the Seam

The first thing we’re going to do, is add a little slip stitch to the two corners of our seam. This will ensure the edge of our work is smooth.

  1. Find the V on the edge of your FIRST row.

2. Insert hook, from front to back, into it.

3. Yarn Over

4. Draw the Yarn Over through work and through loop on hook.

Now, we can get to the real seaming business:

This seam is made by “zipping” one side of your fabric to the other.
We will be pulling each bar/line on the LAST row through each bar/line on the First row, and securing it there with a UK dc / US sc.

Here’s how:

  1. Locate the nearest line/bar on the FIRST row

2. Insert hook into it

3. Locate the nearest line/bar on the LAST row

4. Insert hook into it

5. In order, from left to right:
LAST row loop, FIRST row loop, loop that was already on the hook.

6. Draw LAST row loop through FIRST row loop

First ‘zip’ complete

Time for a little traditional crochet!

* This seam won’t hold without a little help, so we’re going to add a UK dc / US sc st onto the loop left on the hook.
Let’s do it!

1. Yarn Over.

2. Draw Yarn Over through one loop

3. Yarn Over again.

4. Draw Yarn Over through both loops

Repeat the “zip and secure” sequence for each pair of bars/lines on your seam until you get to the end.

It will look like this at this stage.

A completed (Almost) Invisible Seam

There’s just one final thing to do; slip stitch into the two corners to smooth out the edge.

Here’s how:

1. Insert hook into both corners.

2. Yarn Over.

3. Draw Yarn Over through everything else on hook.

Bind off. Weave in ends. You know the drill.

Then, when you flip your fabric the right way out, you notice your seam is (almost) invisible, nice and strong and flexible!

A completed (Almost) Invisible Seam

SIDE NOTE: You may ask, “Hey, Aoibhe, why not use a slip stitch throughout the seam? Surely that’d take less time, use less yarn and sit flush with the fabric, right?”

And I’d say, yes, it would. But also, slip stitches have zero stretch and zero chill.

Tunisian fabric has a lovely level of 4-way stretch, and if you add a non-stretchy seam to one part, it’s bound to cause shaping, comfort and blocking issues.

So, while a double crochet is, indeed, a little bigger, uses a little more yarn and takes more time to do, it’s still a better choice over all.

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No-Gap Base Increase

How to increase the height of your Tunisian Crochet column, without leaving a hole in your fabric.

This is so quick to do. You’ll love it.

Start With Some Tunisian Crochet

In this case, I have a layer of crochet done, and have started into a second layer.
The layer I’m working on is three bars high.

If you want to do the same, go ahead, I can wait. It’s no bother. I can just go make a cup of tea.

A layer of linked stitches.

Work the Downward Pass

Pick up loops in all the bars, as you have done for every column of the row so far. Don’t work into the next base just yet. We’ll get to that in a second.

Do you see the hole at the base of your PREVIOUS column? Work your hook into it.

  1. Loops picked up. Hole at base of previous column visible to the left of thumb.

2. Hook into hole at base of previous column.

Yarn Over, and draw a loop through fabric.

This adds a loop to hook that wouldn’t have been there otherwise (an increase)

  1. Yarn Over

2. Extra Loop

Now, we continue the Downward Pass by working hook into NEXT base:

Hook worked into NEXT base along.

Yarn Over, and draw a loop through to front of fabric:

  1. Yarn Over

2. Pull through

Work Tunisian Crochet Upward Pass as usual

* Yarn Over, pull through two loops * repeatedly until one loop is left on hook.

The three bars are now accompanied by a fourth (at the bottom of the column).

You are now working with four bars where before, you only had three.

Here’s what a completed, taller layer will look like.

A three-bar layer has been transformed into a four-bar layer. Lovely job!

And here’s the whole thing in motion:

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“Be Kind. Rewind” – What you can do to improve the tension and elasticity in your yarn

Have you ever considered the tension your yarn is under once it’s been wound into a cake or ball?
One of the main reasons yarn is sold in a skein is to preserve its elasticity. So, from the second you wind it, it’s being held at a stretch.

Animal fibres in particular have a gorgeous spring to them. If you stretch them, they snap back on release. This elasticity gives a finished garment a bounce and a wearability that is a pleasure to behold.

But if these fibres are held at their limit for too long, they can lose that elasticity entirely. That’s why you should only wind your skeins when you intend to knit or crochet with them soon after. It’s also why those old balls of donated yarn tend to seem so lifeless – they’ve been held at a stretch for decades. Yikes.

Ball winders and swifts are an amazing piece of kit I believe every crafter should invest in, but there’s a pull between swift and winder, so even they can add tension to a newly-wound skein.

Image (c) Ballyhoura Fibres http://www.ballyhourafibres.com

See the two cakes below?

They’re actually the exact same skein.
The one on the left has been wound directly from the skein on my swift.
The one of the right is the same ball, wound from the first cake into a second, much more relaxed cake.

Look at the size difference! And imagine the tension the first one would have been under had I only wound it once.

two cakes of yarn, illustrating the tension yarn can be under after one wind (left) and two winds (right) The elasticity of the cake on the right is more relaxed.
Same exact skein of yarn, first wind (left) second wind (right)

So, tell me. Are you kind to your yarn? Do you ever rewind?

And if you haven’t done it before now, have I convinced you to start? I sure hope so! And I bet your yarn will thank you, too!

Oh! And… psst! The yarn I’ve pictured here is a beautiful skein of Ballyhoura Fibre yarn. It’s Cierra’s 4-ply sock in colourway “Pot Pourri”. Watch out for it in a pattern this autumn!
You can find the link here: https://www.ballyhourafibres.com/


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Adding Relief Stitches to Tunisian Crochet fabric.

Tunisian Crochet has texture for daaays.
It’s one of the things I love the most about it. From that gorgeous stripe on Simple Stitch, to the squishy bounce of Knit Stitch, you can’t go wrong with a little TC. But sometimes, you wanna turn the volume up on that texture. That’s where Tunisian Crochet Relief stitches come in.

You can use it to add ribbing and cables to your crochet or a simple POP! to the edge of your fabric.

Read on to see what I mean.

Less Talky, More Show-y?
Click here for a small video demo

Make a Piece of Tunisian Simple Stitch

To begin, work a few rows of 13 TSS per row.

Starting off. A small piece of Tunisian Simple Stitch fabric.

Let’s Get Set Up

Below you’ll see I’ve worked the first 5 TSS on the next row, and added 1 Yarn Over to my hook.
That gives me 7 loops on the hook in total.

Yarn Over on hook

Next, make a TSS3tog decrease.

To make a TSS3tog, slide hook into the next 3 lines, Yarn Over, and draw loop back through all three lines.

Hook in…
Yarn Over and draw through

Once you have that done, add another Yarn Over to the hook, and complete the row as usual.

Yarn Over…
Work TSS sts for the rest of the row

At the end of the Forward Pass, we use the same rule as always for the Return Pass.
That rule?
Yarn Over and draw through one loop, then *Yarn Over and draw through two loops* repeatedly until you are back to one loop on the hook.
(Psst! Treat each loop the same, whether it’s a Yarn Over, or a legit stitch.)

That’s the “Foundation Row” complete

And, this is what your row will look like after all those “YOs and pull throughs” are complete.

Two eyelets with a TSS3tog decrease in the middle

As you can see above, our decrease is now flanked by two lace eyelets made by those lovely Yarn Overs we added. Those eyelets will be used to anchor the beginning of our relief work.

One Last Thing, before we get to the Crochet Relief Stitches

Complete one more row of regular Tunisian like this:

Work TSS sts up to the first eyelet. Then press hook from front to back into eyelet.

5 TSS sts on the hook (Making 6 loops in total)
Hook through first eyelet

Yarn Over Hook, and draw the Yarn Over back to the front of the fabric.

Yarn Over…
Draw through eyelet to the front again

Press hook into next stitch (This will be the stitch coming out of the previous row’s TSS3tog)
Yarn Over Hook, and draw the Yarn Over through stitch.

Hook in…
Yarn Over and draw through

Find the second eyelet, and press hook through it to the back of the fabric.

Identifying the eyelet
Hook in second eyelet

Yarn Over and draw the Yarn Over through eyelet to the front again.

Yarn Over…
…and draw through

Complete the Forward Pass of the row as usual…

And then work the Return Pass to complete the row.

Ready to make your first Tunisian Crochet Relief Stitch!

Everything is all set up, so we can now get to our Tunisian Crochet Relief Stitches!
First thing we need to do is work the first 6 TSS sts.
This will bring our hook up to (but not into!) the st directly over the TSS3tog.

Then, Yarn Over on your hook TWICE.

6 TSS sts made (Giving you 7 loops on your hook)
Yarn Over TWICE

Push hook through first eyelet to the back of the fabric…
Then weave it back to the front of the fabric through the second eyelet.

In one…
and out the other

Yarn Over, and draw that newest Yarn Over back along the path your hook hook.
i.e through the second eyelet to the back of your fabric, then forward to the front of your fabric through the first eyelet.

Yarn Over…
…and draw through

To complete your first Relief Stitch work the following:
*YO, draw through two loops* twice.

First Relief Stitch complete

If you’d like to see your relief stitch a little clearer, fold the fabric in front of your hook back. Your Relief Stitch will stand out better.

A better view of the completed Relief Stitch

Complete the rest of the Forward Pass as usual, starting with the stitch directly above the second eyelet.
(There is a stitch behind the Relief Stitch that should remain unsued)

These two photos below are what it looks like once you have the Forward Pass of the row complete.

Relief Stitch in place
Thumbs highlighting the Relief Stitch

When your Return Pass is all done and dusted, this is what it will look like.
As you can see in the second photo below, a nice big gap exists betwen the relief stitch and the body of the fabric. That gap will be used to attach the next row’s Relief Stitch to the first one.

Return Pass complete
Check for the gap before continuing.

Pro Tip.
If you have difficulty controlling the gap, pop a lockable stitch marker in there.

Second Relief Stitch

Start your second Relief Stitch by adding one Yarn Over to your hook.
Then press your hook into and through the gap we just checked out.

Yarn Over
Through the gap

Yarn Over, and draw the Yarn Over back through the gap.

Yarn Over…
Back through the gap

Yarn Over, and draw through two loops.

Yarn Over, draw through two loops complete
And this is what the row looks like with the Return Pass complete

Work the Return Pass as per usual, folks.

On every relief row after this, work the same instructions you used for the second relief row.
After a few rows, it’ll start to look like this little piece of gorgeousness below.

Several Relief Stitch rows complete

Final Thoughts

Now, some of you may be asking “But, Aoibhe! Why did you use TWO Yarn Overs on the first one, and only ONE thereafter?”

And I’d answer that by complimenting your eagle eyes, and by telling you that for the first relief stitch, we had two rows to work over, so it needed to be a bit longer.

The rest of the relief stitches will only have one row to work over, so they get to be a little shorter.

Additionally, if I worked all the relief stitches with two Yarn Overs, they’d be saggy and loose, and would catch on ev-ery-thing when you wore it.

So, there you go!
Well done!

Video Demonstration of a Tunisian Crochet Relief Stitch

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How to Start Your Pax Shawl

Ah, Pax.
Pax, my beloved Tunisian crochet shawlette.

This is my most popular pattern (as much because I’ve priced it to be accessible to anyone wanting to learn Tunisian lace crochet, as because I kept it complication-free purely to keep the pattern simpler for beginners).

Occasionally, I get questions about it, though, and the majority of them are to do with starting out.
Usually, I reply to beginner crocheters’ questions individually, but I thought “How great would it be if I updated Pax with a new photo tutorial?” It is 11 years old at this stage, and could do with sprucing up… so…

If you’ve got a copy of Pax, a crochet hook at the ready, and you’re not sure how to begin, let me help you out.

Today's Yarn, by the way, is Drops Flora.

It's a wool/alpaca blend that I'm currently obsessed with. It's warm, has great stitch definition and a wide range of colourways. 

And my hook, as always is a beechwood KnitPro Symfonie - this one's my trusty 5 mm.

Make Some Chains

OK, so the pattern calls for way more chain stitches than this.
I’ve made 20 chains here to demonstrate the technique, but you will be making way more when you start your own Pax adventure.

4-ply yarn and a 5 mm hook

Have you picked up your copy yet?
Click Here!

The First Stitch.

First things first, we need to take a look at our chains.
We’re going to skip the chain closest to the hook, and work instead into the second chain along.

Find the second chain…
Push hook through top loop of chain
Hook is now completely through loop on second chain

Yarn Over on your hook, and draw that Yarn Over back through the chain.
This will give you two loops on your hook –

  • The loop furthest from the hook head was there already.
  • The loop closest to the hook head is your first Tunisian Simple Stitch.
Yarn over

Draw through chain

The Forward Pass

We then do the same for the next chain along.

Important Note for Beginners: We ONLY skip the very first chain in Tunisian crochet. No other chains are skipped from this point on.

Find the next chain along
Push hook through
Yarn over…
Draw Yarn Over through chain

Every time we repeat this process, we add a loop to the hook.
When we have added ten stitches, we’ll have eleven loops in total (that includes the one that was there from the beginning)

11 loops = 10 stitches

For this tutorial, this completes our “Forward Pass”.

In Tunisian Crochet, we have two “Passes” per row of work.
The “Forward Pass” that we have just completed sees loops being added to the hook.
The “Return Pass” will see us remove stitches as we work until we are back to one loop on the hook.

Between the Forward and Return Passes in Pax we have an extra dance step to do, and it involves the next chain along on our string of chains.

Working the “Base”

I want you to identify the next chain along, work your hook into it, Yarn Over, and draw a final loop onto your hook.
A note on this loop: It is created the exact same way as all the loops before it, but its job is very different. It’s not counted as a stitch because it is, in fact, the base of the column. This will become clear as we work on.

There are now 12 loops on the hook
That’s 1 at the start, 10 Tunisian Simple Stitches, and 1 base loop

The Return Pass

The Return Pass is easily my favourite bit of this whole process.
It require far less concentration and is oddly satisfying.

All you have to do to complete the entire Return Pass is to *Yarn Over on your hook, and draw it through two loops* repeatedly, until you are left with one loop on your hook.

Yarn Over
Drawing through two loops
After the second repeat you start to see the row/colum forming in your hook’s wake


When you’re at that point, you’ve completed your row/column!

Foundation Row/Column complete

As you can make out in the above photo, the row/column we have completed has ten little rung or lines evenly spaced down its length. In the above photo they are vertical, look like little fence posts, and start at my right thumb nail and travel down the fabric to my left thumb nail.

We’re going to use these lines to anchor our second row/column.


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Row/Column 2

Slide hook through the first of these lines, like a bolt locking a door.
We stay on the Right Side of the work for this. There’s no neeed to push through to the Wrong Side at all from hereon in.

Original loop on hook (right) and vertical line (left)

Then, same as before, we simply Yarn Over, and draw the yarn over through the line, giving us two loops on the hook.

Yarn Over
Draw through

Then, we find the next line along, and slide the hook through that.

Next line along

And we do the same thing – Yarn Over, pull through.

Yarn Over
Draw through – 3 loops on hook

Now, it’s just a matter of carrying on down, picking up loops using each of the available lines.

Ten loops added to hook for a total of eleven loops

With the Forward Pass complete, we work The Base into the next chain along:

Hook in next chain along…
Yarn Over
Draw through – 1 more loop added to hook
There are 12 in total now

With that taken care of, we get to do the Return Pass for the row/column.
That’s *Yarn Over, draw through 2 loops* repeatedly until 1 loop is left on hook.

2 rows/columns complete

Row/Column 3

With another whole row/column complete, this is what you’ll be looking at:

3 rows/columns complete

More Rows/Columns

After another few completed rows/columns, you’ll start to notice your dangling chains aren’t so dangly anymore. Each row/column uses up one at its base, and adds some strength to that edge of your shawl and helps ensure the completed shawl blocks into a gentle curve.

6 rows/columns complete

I hope this tutorial helps you get started on your own Pax Adventure!

You can find the pattern (using both UK and US crochet terms) here:

Well done!


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