Month: November 2021

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Creating Reoite’s “Snow Flower” – Part 2

This tutorial will guide you through the Return Pass for the Snow Flower stitch in my Reoite Glove pattern.

Recap

Here’s where we left off in Part 1.

The Forward Pass has been completed and we are ready to work the Return Pass

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Work the Return Pass as usual until there are only two loops left before we reach the stitch marker:

(This will require referencing your copy of Reoite as the number of stitches to be worked will change depending on the glove size and Snow Flower position)

Two loops left on hook before the stitch marker is reached.

Remove the marker.

Then, Yarn Over and draw through 3 loops on hook.
You will work through 2 tight loops and a loose (petal) loop.

Yarn Over in place on hook.
Yarn Over has been drawn through two loops
and the looser (petal) loop.
Note how the first petal has been worked off the hook.

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Make another Yarn Over and draw that through the next two loops and one looser (petal) loop.
Do this repeatedly until all the petals have been removed from hook.

Second Repeat – second petal is off hook
Third Repeat – third petal is off hook
Fourth Repeat – fourth petal is off hook
Fifth Repeat – fifth petal is off hook
Sixth Repeat – sixth petal is off hook

At this point all six petals of the Snow Flower have been worked off the hook, so now, we can complete the Return Pass in the traditional manner i.e.
*Yarn Over, and draw through 2 loops* repeatedly to end of row.

Nicely done!

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Creating Reoite’s “Snow Flower” – Part 1

The “Snow Flower” on my Reoite Mitten pattern is worked as you crochet, rather than being added afterwards.
As such, it’s literally part of the fabric of the glove, making them warmer on your hand and cozier to the touch.

Reoite has 4 Snow Flowers per glove, and here’s how you create this gorgeous, textured effect with some simple loops and regular length crochet hook.

First Things First

There’s some crocheting to be done.

Getting set up to create the first Snow Flower

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Next, we have to locate a spot on the fabric we’ve created..

Three TSS sts in…
…and four rows down.

From the next stitch along, count three stitches in, and then count four rows down. There is a little hole in your fabric on the bottom right of that stitch’s bar.
(It’s on the bottom left for left-handed makers)

The First Petal



Insert your hook into that hole, push through to the back of your fabric and make a Yarn Over.

Hook about the enter fabric
Hook at back of fabric, with Yarn Over added

Draw Yarn Over through to the front of work, and stretch until loop reaches top of fabric.

This is your first Snow Flower petal

Peek behind the petal you have just made and you’ll see the previous row’s TSS bars sitting there.
Insert hook into the next one along:

Hook in next TSS ba along

Yarn Over, and draw through:

Yarn Over
Draw Yarn Over through bar

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Adding More Petals

We will repeat the above dance steps a few times until our flower starts to bloom.

Insert hook into same hole in fabric, Yarn over and draw a second petal loop through to front
Locate next TSS bar on previous row behind petal, insert hook, Yarn Over and draw another loop onto hook

Once you’ve done this repeatedly, you’ll notice that the loops on your hook alternate between a long (petal) loop and a shorter (TSS) loop.

Stop picking up loops when you have 6 petals and 5 TSS loops on your hook.

Pop a latchable stitch marker onto your hook.

Make sure the stitch marker you use is a removable one.

Complete the row as directed in the pattern:
(This varies depending on the position of the Snow Flower, so follow the pattern to be sure).

Forward Pass is complete

For a Photo Tutorial of the Return Pass, click here.

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Marie Saur, Kathleen Robins, Jolin Lang, Sylvea Allington, Sherry Lynn Cekala, Marion Muir, Gwen Coltrin, Sarah Mcfall, Subethjimbob, Gillian Balharry, Michelle Ganoff, Liz Lowe, Heather Lane, Lisa Walsh, Cecilia M Mencias, Isabeau Suro, Ellen Krawiec, Caragh Barry, Wonne, Woolly Wormhead, Konni Wuppertalerin, Deanna Nielson, Mary A Maddy, Sue Horsburgh, Samantha Locke, Teresa Baker, Thea Hutchings, Mariag, Rachel Moutrie, Kris Park, Susan Baughman, Jill Shanmugasundaram, Sarah Davis, Patricia M Fragaszy, Lisa Hendrick, Fran Oberne, Amanda Blohm, Kate Hulme, Emily Owen, Ann Ryan, Kim Tijerina, Ursula Moertl, Kristin, Seyren, Tanja Osswald, Ursula Mayr, Judy Baldwin, Concetta Phillipps, Liss Allen, Maire, Beate Siefer, Kristen, Edi, Julie Marz, Sammy Campbell, Flootzavut, Kathlyn Smith, Regina Schweinsberg, Lora O’Brien, Anne Johannessen, Cheidner, Jasminetea182, Medora Van Denburgh, Heather Longino, Mary, Annie Wells

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TSS2tog decrease

It’s hard to imagine, but sometimes, Dear Reader LESS Tunisian Crochet is called for.
And in those moments, knowing how to decrease is a boon.

In my Reoite Gloves, we use decreases to add a little shape to the fabric. This ensures that we have a cuff that sits comfortably on the wider part of the arm, as well as a glove that sits snug at the wrist and knuckles with no room for pesky drafts to sneak in.

Here’s how the TSS2tog (Tunisian Simple Stitch 2 together) is made.


Work the pattern up to the point where you need to make a TSS2tog:

Part of the Forward Pass on this row of Tunisian Simple Stitch is complete.

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Slide your hook through the next TWO bars along:

Two bars on hook

Yarn Over hook:

Yarn Over

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Draw Yarn Over through the two bars on hook:

You have created a TSS2tog stitch by making one loop (on hook) out of two bars (on previous row).

When you complete the rest of the row, you can see a little upsidedown V shape indicating the point you worked the TSS2tog decrease.

The decrease will appear one row LOWER than you may expect. Remember that if you use them to count rows.

Note:
The Return Pass is worked as normal i.e.
Yarn Over, draw through 1 loop to make a chain stitch, then *Yarn Over, draw through 2 loops* repeatedly to end of row.

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Marie Saur, Kathleen Robins, Jolin Lang, Sylvea Allington, Sherry Lynn Cekala, Marion Muir, Gwen Coltrin, Sarah Mcfall, Subethjimbob, Gillian Balharry, Michelle Ganoff, Liz Lowe, Heather Lane, Lisa Walsh, Cecilia M Mencias, Isabeau Suro, Ellen Krawiec, Caragh Barry, Wonne, Woolly Wormhead, Konni Wuppertalerin, Deanna Nielson, Mary A Maddy, Sue Horsburgh, Samantha Locke, Teresa Baker, Thea Hutchings, Mariag, Rachel Moutrie, Kris Park, Susan Baughman, Jill Shanmugasundaram, Sarah Davis, Patricia M Fragaszy, Lisa Hendrick, Fran Oberne, Amanda Blohm, Kate Hulme, Emily Owen, Ann Ryan, Kim Tijerina, Ursula Moertl, Kristin, Seyren, Tanja Osswald, Ursula Mayr, Judy Baldwin, Concetta Phillipps, Liss Allen, Maire, Beate Siefer, Kristen, Edi, Julie Marz, Sammy Campbell, Flootzavut, Kathlyn Smith, Regina Schweinsberg, Lora O’Brien, Anne Johannessen, Cheidner, Jasminetea182, Medora Van Denburgh, Heather Longino, Mary, Annie Wells

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Flat Section on a Curved Shawl?

V’s Question

Dear Aoibhe.

I am almost halfway crocheting through your lovely Lunula shawl but have a question re the “36 L40tr” stitches on Panel 3 -does this mean 36 rows of 40linked trebles without increasing or decreasing?

If so, I am confused as I thought the shawl was circular.
Is the midpoint of the shawl the middle of these 36 rows?

Could you clarify this for me please?
Many thanks!
– V

Aoibhe’s Answer

Hi, V!

Thank you for your insightful email.

To answer your question, your interpretation is correct.
I can confirm you are being asked to make 36 x L40tr as you thought you were.

Here’s the logic behind it, so you know you’re on the right track;

The purposes of the [increases] at the beginning and end of Panel 3 and later the Short Rows that are added is twofold;
First, yes, they are there to increase the number of stitches and help bring your shawl into a curve, but they’re also there to help compensate for the growing stitch height.

Without all those increases and short rows the open edge of Panel 3 would get quite tight and wouldn’t lie flat.
It’d be unwearable.

So, while I know it seems like a sudden shock to stop increasing all of a sudden, you will notice in that 36 stitch stretch we also stop growing the height of the stitches, so we’ve way less need for the short rows at that point. That section will lie flat without any outside help.

The 36 stitch stretch is there for a few reasons, too;

Firstly, it’s a good breather and gives the crocheter a chance to take stock, make sure your stitch counts are working out and then to work on from there. It’s a good time to count the stitch spaces you have remaining to you, and to make an adjustment if you have too few or too many.
(just add extra L40trs if you have too many sts left, or pull back a few if you’re running low)

But secondly, that big solid gold block is the shawl’s main feature, so I thought adding short rows to it which would interrupt the gorgeous flow of that golden yarn would be doing it a disservice.
Panel 4’s increases will help ease that flat section into a curve, so it won’t look out of place.

Your shawl will indeed curve as you want it to, so worry not.

I do appreciate your question though. Thanks for asking.

Happy Crocheting!
A x

PS. Hey, crochet fans! If you’d like to have a go at Lunula, you can find it here!